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The mighty structure of red and yellow sandstone is best explored on an organised tour of the upper level (Tuesday and Thursday, 11am and 2pm; admission £6.50).Just across the road, you can explore a pair of ruins: the Bishop's and Earl's Palaces.There is more than enough on this island alone for a good few days' stay – not least because you can explore two extra islands without getting your feet wet.
Orkney has exported its people far and wide – as most prominently revealed in the pretty port of Stromness, to the west of Mainland, and the arrival point from Scrabster on Scotland's north coast.
Kirkwall is not exactly a throbbing metropolis, which is, of course, part of the charm.
It is the location for the northernmost cathedral in Britain: St Magnus, named after Magnus Erlendsson, the 11th-century "martyr of Orkney" (01856 874 894; stmagnus.org).
Another intriguing attraction is the Wireless Museum (full of old radios – nothing to do with internet broadband; uk, 10am-4.30pm daily, £2).
The capital is on the northern side of Mainland, a splat of land that bulges to the west and is squeezed in several places to the east.